“The part of the Adriatic Coast belonging to Montenegro is the purest part of the Mediterranean.”
Are you looking for somewhere in southern Europe for your next summer vacation, but feel like you've already done Italy, Spain, and Croatia? Well, how about Montenegro?
I'll be honest, Montenegro wasn't really on my radar until we decided to visit. I'd been to Croatia several times before, but never ventured further down the Adriatic coast, so I didn't really know what to expect. And I certainly didn't expect the scenery to be quite this beautiful. The mountains are absolutely incredible, and combined with that ridiculously blue water, it was pretty much everything I love about a destination in one place. Give me mountains and water, and I'm happy!
For this trip, we decided to spend a few days relaxing by the beach at One&Only Portonovi, a luxury resort overlooking the Bay of Kotor. And while we'd originally come to Montenegro for a relaxing vacation, I quickly realized there was so much more of the country I wanted to explore. Unfortunately, three nights don't leave much time for both, especially when you're staying at a resort that's a little further away from everything.
But that's also what makes choosing the right hotel important. One&Only Portonovi has beautiful rooms, several restaurants, a sandy beach, and some pretty incredible views across the water. So, is it a good choice for your Montenegro vacation?
Let's take a closer look.
In this Review
If you're still exploring your options, you can also check out my Best Luxury Hotels in Europe roundup, which includes One&Only Portonovi and a few other favorites.
Let’s take a closer look at One&Only Portonovi, from the rooms and restaurants to the location and pools:
The Location
Located right by the Bay of Kotor, One&Only Portonovi has some incredible views of the water and surrounding mountains. And I have to say, the scenery was one of the things that surprised me most about Montenegro. You already get a taste of it on the drive to the hotel, but the views from the resort itself really are something else.
Getting there is fairly easy, especially if you're driving. There's plenty of parking at the hotel, so no issues there. If you're flying in, you've got a few airport options. Podgorica Airport is about 170 kilometers (106 miles) away, with the drive taking around 2 hours and 30 minutes. Tivat Airport is closer, at approximately 75 kilometers (47 miles), or about an hour by car.
If you're coming from Croatia, Dubrovnik Airport is another option. We flew into Dubrovnik, and the hotel arranged a car to pick us up. Crossing the border was easy, but keep in mind that they do check your documents, so have your passport ready.
Now, one thing to keep in mind is that One&Only Portonovi isn't necessarily the most convenient location if you're planning to explore Montenegro. We actually spent almost our entire stay at the resort, apart from one trip to Kotor, which we arranged by boat through the hotel. It was a beautiful way to see the bay, but it was also incredibly expensive. If I remember correctly, we paid around €700 for the trip, and we only had about an hour to walk around Kotor before we had to head back.
Looking back, I would've done things differently. I'd probably rent a car or combine a few nights at One&Only Portonovi with a stay somewhere closer to Kotor. We came here mainly to relax by the beach, so spending most of our time at the resort was the plan. But once I saw how beautiful Montenegro was, I couldn't help feeling we'd missed out on exploring more of it. Then again, that's what happens when I try to plan a relaxing vacation and my FOMO takes over...
So, if you're coming primarily to enjoy the resort, the location really isn't an issue. But if you want to see more of Montenegro, I'd definitely recommend planning some time outside Portonovi rather than relying entirely on excursions arranged through the hotel.
The Rooms
Let's talk about the rooms at One&Only Portonovi, because I have a few things to say about that bathroom. We booked a Panoramic Bayview Room, and I'll admit, one of the main reasons I chose it was the bathtub. It's positioned right next to a floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the bay, so you can enjoy those incredible mountain and water views while taking a bath. Honestly, 10/10.
The hotel is still fairly new, and you can definitely tell. Everything felt fresh and modern, and the room itself was incredibly spacious, with a super comfortable bed, automatic curtains (which are always a plus for a light sleeper like me), and a balcony overlooking the water.
But the bathroom deserves a special mention because it was probably bigger than some hotel rooms I've stayed in. There was a separate vanity area with a proper dressing table, which made getting ready so much easier, a bathtub with that same view, and, perhaps my favorite feature of all, a very fancy toilet.
I'm not even joking. It had a heated seat, a built-in bidet, and all those little extras you normally find in Japan but rarely come across in European hotels. I know it's an interesting thing to get excited about when you're staying somewhere with views like these, but I loved it.
If you're traveling with family or a larger group, One&Only Portonovi also has private villas with plenty of space and privacy. Apparently, Penélope Cruz was staying in one of them while we were there (or so we heard 🤫). We didn't actually see her, but I can definitely understand why someone looking for a little privacy would choose one of those villas.
The Restaurant
Let's talk about the restaurants at One&Only Portonovi, because there's quite a bit to choose from. But first, we need to talk about breakfast.
Even now, it still stands out as one of the best hotel breakfasts I've had anywhere. And I don't say that lightly. You get the best of both worlds: a large buffet with plenty of options and an extensive à la carte menu on top of that. From waffles and pancakes to Turkish eggs, there's so much to choose from that you could easily have something different every morning.
And of course, there's also a Bloody Mary station and Champagne. Call me whatever you want, but having a Bloody Mary or a glass of Champagne with breakfast just makes my day when I'm on vacation.
What also stood out was how flexible everything was. A family sitting next to us ordered an egg-white omelet with what felt like a never-ending list of specific additions and adjustments, and the staff didn't bat an eye. I've rarely seen that level of customization for something as simple as an omelet, so if you like your breakfast a very particular way, you'll probably be quite happy here.
For lunch and dinner, there are several restaurants around the resort, including Italian, seafood, and Japanese options. We particularly enjoyed Tapasake, the hotel's Japanese restaurant, which you might recognize if you've stayed at other One&Only properties. We actually visited another Tapasake at One&Only Le Saint Géran in Mauritius.
The food was really good, but I won't pretend it was cheap. Tapasake in particular was expensive, even by luxury hotel standards. Something else that surprised me was the 15% service charge added to the bill, with tips treated separately. I'm used to either tipping or paying a service charge in Europe, so having both was a little unexpected.
That said, I genuinely enjoyed the food at One&Only Portonovi, and having several restaurants to choose from is convenient when you're planning to spend most of your time at the resort. Just keep in mind that dining here comes with luxury resort prices, which are quite different from what you'd pay at local restaurants in Montenegro.
The Amenities
There's plenty to do at One&Only Portonovi, whether you want to spend your days by the pool or do something a little more active. The resort has a spa with massages, a sauna, and a steam room, as well as a large gym and tennis courts.
When it comes to swimming, you've got several options. There's an indoor pool, a large outdoor pool, and another pool with a DJ if you're looking for something a little more lively. But personally, I was a big fan of the private sandy beach.
Now, sandy beaches aren't exactly what Montenegro is known for, and apparently, the hotel even had the sand brought in from Egypt. I've seen some people complain about the beach being artificial, but I really don't see the problem. Having spent quite a few summers in Croatia as a kid, I still remember having to wear those plastic water shoes because the beaches were so rocky. So, give me a sandy beach any day!
What I also liked was that there were pools right by the beach, so you could easily switch between swimming in the sea and taking a dip in the pool without having to move somewhere else.
If you want to explore more of the Bay of Kotor, the hotel also offers speedboat trips and private yacht excursions. We actually booked a boat trip to Kotor, which was a great way to see the surrounding scenery from the water. Just keep in mind that these excursions can be quite expensive, as I mentioned earlier.
Between the pools, beach, spa, and activities, there's more than enough to keep you entertained for a few days, even if you don't plan on leaving the resort.
My Verdict: Is One&Only Portonovi Worth Staying At?
I have to say, One&Only Portonovi really delivered on what we came for: a few days of relaxing by the water, good food, and some incredible views. And considering I didn't really know what to expect from Montenegro before visiting, I left wanting to come back and see more of the country. Which, in my book, is always a good sign!
But I do feel it's important to know what kind of vacation you're booking. One&Only Portonovi is a resort where you can easily spend several days without leaving the property, and I can see why people would want to. Whether you're traveling as a couple or with children, there's plenty to do without having to plan much.
However, I wouldn't necessarily choose it as my only base if exploring Montenegro is high on your list. Getting around takes some planning, and the excursions arranged through the hotel can be quite expensive. Personally, I'd combine a few nights here with a stay somewhere else in Montenegro next time.
And while the hotel itself certainly lives up to its luxury reputation, don't expect Montenegro prices when it comes to the restaurants and extras. You're paying luxury resort prices here, regardless of where you are.
So, would I stay at One&Only Portonovi again? Yes, especially for a few days of sunshine and doing absolutely nothing. But next time, I'd make sure to leave a little more time for Montenegro itself.
Let's quickly summarize my experience:
What It Does Well
Incredible mountain and bay views
Spacious rooms with large bathrooms
Sandy beach and several pools
Great for couples and families
What to Keep in Mind
Not the most convenient location for sightseeing
Expensive restaurants and excursions
Easy to miss out on exploring Montenegro
I hope this was helpful. If you have any more questions, you can always slide into my DMs here or on Instagram, and I’m more than happy to answer any of your questions. Happy Travels!
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