The Witchery by the Castle Review: Inside Edinburgh’s Most Hauntingly Beautiful Hotel
“There’s a few things I’ve learned in life: always throw salt over your left shoulder, keep rosemary by your garden gate, plant lavender for good luck, and fall in love whenever you can.”
If you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh and want to add a little magic to your stay, The Witchery by the Castle is probably already on your radar. Housed in a stunning 16th-century building right next to Edinburgh Castle, this place is steeped in history—and whispers of the supernatural. The building itself dates back hundreds of years and was once home to merchants and nobles, with its dark, atmospheric interiors recalling a time when witches and legends were part of everyday life. With its gothic suites, candlelit hallways, and rich, centuries-old history (yes — plenty of ghost stories and whispers of hauntings come with the territory), it’s easy to see why The Witchery has become a bucket-list stay for those craving something a little out of the ordinary.
What makes this place even more special is just how exclusive it is—The Witchery is actually a restaurant with only a handful of rooms upstairs, offering an intimate and unique stay that feels like stepping back in time. But with all this drama and history packed into a few rooms, the real question is—is the experience worth the splurge, or is it all just smoke and mirrors? I’m here to take you inside and share all the details.
Here we go! Let’s determine if staying here is worth it while we cover all aspects of the hotel, from the rooms to the location:
The Location
Location-wise, The Witchery couldn’t be more perfectly placed. Situated right next to Edinburgh Castle, it’s nestled in the heart of the city’s oldest neighborhood. A 25-minute taxi ride from Edinburgh Airport (approximately £25) brings you directly to its doorstep. Alternatively, the airport express is £5 per person and stops near Edinburgh Waverley train station. From there, it’s about a 7-minute walk uphill to The Witchery—charming if you’re traveling light, but perhaps a bit challenging with heavy luggage (going downhill on your way back will definitely be easier).
Once you’re there, you’re just minutes from the Royal Mile, with its cobblestone charm, quirky shops, and historic pubs. Keep in mind that since it’s located right on one of the city’s most tourist-heavy streets, maneuvering through crowds will be part of the experience, especially during peak times.
The Rooms
The Witchery only has a handful of rooms, and each one is like stepping into its own story. We stayed in the Turret Suite, and honestly, it felt like living in a little gothic dream. Just a heads-up: the rooms are all up a floor, accessible by these narrow, winding stone spiral stairs. It adds to the whole magical, old-world vibe, but might be difficult if you have difficulty with stairs. The staff will bring the luggage up and down from your room, so don’t worry about having to drag luggage up to the room.
The suite itself? Spacious, cozy, and oh-so-inviting, you won’t want to leave once you're inside. The main act? The bathtub. Pro tip: head over to Lush and grab a bubble bar before you arrive—you’ll thank me later. Booking directly through the Witchery site gets you a complimentary bottle of Witchery Champagne, which feels like the perfect little celebration just for you and makes the ideal companion for a romantic bathtime.
Despite being right in the heart of Edinburgh’s busiest area, the suite was wonderfully quiet and beautifully dark—ideal for unwinding after a day of exploring. Fair warning, though: it can get a bit warm, so keep the Dyson air conditioner on at night.
Now, about the spooky side… there’s a guestbook in the room where one of the previous guests drew a demon-like figure, saying it “lives in the walls.” It’s the same one that is featured on the bathroom wallpaper, so once you see it, you won’t be able to unsee it. That gave me chills and ultimately a few nightmares—but honestly, in the morning, I decided it added to the whole experience.
One little tip I came across while reading reviews online—and I thought it was brilliant—is that someone actually booked a two-night stay but couldn’t decide which suite to choose (understandable, they all look incredible). So they stayed in one room the first night and switched to another the second night to experience both.
The Restaurant
The Witchery offers two dining options: The Witchery Restaurant and the Secret Garden. I can only speak for the Witchery Restaurant since that’s where we ate. I had read a mix of reviews online, so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. The ambiance definitely lived up to the hotel’s vibe—dark, elegant, and atmospheric, just like the rooms. But to be completely honest, the food and service were fine, nothing extraordinary.
Considering the price, I’m pretty sure there are better spots to eat in Edinburgh. (And no, Sushi Samba isn’t one of them—after eating there the day before, I can confidently say it was the least impressive of all the Sushi Sambas I’ve tried worldwide, both food- and vibe-wise.) We ended up loving lunch at The Outsider, a laid-back spot in the Old Town with amazing food and a relaxed, authentic atmosphere—highly recommend that one if you’re looking for a great meal in Edinburgh.
Back to The Witchery… we had an appetizer, a main, shared dessert, plus drinks, and the bill came to about £300. Honestly, it wasn’t a bad meal, but it also wasn’t memorable. The décor matched the rooms perfectly, which was lovely, but in hindsight, I’d probably spend more time enjoying the room and either eat somewhere else or just grab something casual to enjoy in the suite.
Since The Witchery isn’t officially a hotel, there’s no room service—but you can opt for breakfast in your room (fruit, pastries, coffee) or go downstairs to the Secret Garden for warm breakfast dishes. We chose to stay cozy in our room and soak up the atmosphere a bit longer.
The Amenities
Since I mentioned before that The Witchery isn’t actually a hotel in the traditional sense, you won’t find the usual hotel-style amenities here, no spa, gym, or lounges, for example. But honestly, the real luxury is in the room itself. When you arrive, you’re greeted with a complimentary bottle of Witchery Champagne (such a nice touch), along with still and sparkling water, coffee, tea, and some crisps to nibble on while you settle in.
It all adds to that feeling of being tucked away in your own little gothic hideaway, where the vibe is less about shared amenities and more about soaking up the rich, dramatic atmosphere of your suite.
The Verdict
I have to say, I really enjoyed my stay at The Witchery. It’s such a unique and magical experience—perfect for a romantic night where you just want to hide away, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy something you simply won’t find anywhere else. That said, looking back, I probably would have skipped the restaurant and picked up some takeout to savor more time in the room itself.
A little tip: I read that the prices can vary quite a bit depending on the season, so if you’re flexible, visiting during the off-season might get you a much better deal.
All in all, I’d definitely come back—if only to try out another one of the rooms. One down, nine to go!
I hope this was helpful. If you have any more questions, you can always reach out here or on Instagram, and I’m more than happy to answer any of your questions. Happy Travels!
More Hotel Stays in Scotland
