Zakopane Winter Travel Guide: The Perfect Mountain Escape
“A beautiful sight. We’re happy tonight. Walking in a winter wonderland”
Austria and Switzerland might be the first places that come to mind when you think about a winter trip to the mountains, but Zakopane in southern Poland is one of my favorite alternatives. Sitting at the foot of the Tatra Mountains, it's Poland's best-known mountain town, and somewhere I've been visiting for years.
My family lives around two hours from Zakopane, so I've been coming here at least a couple of times a year for as long as I can remember. And while I visit in summer too, I think winter is when Zakopane is at its best. When there's fresh snow on the ground, the mountains are white, and you can end the day sitting in an outdoor thermal pool while it's freezing around you, it's very difficult not to love it here.
It's also not really the Polish equivalent of a quiet Alpine village. Zakopane can be busy, slightly chaotic, and incredibly touristy, particularly around Krupówki, its main pedestrian street. But that's part of the experience. You'll find traditional wooden houses next to modern hotels, restaurants serving enormous plates of Polish food, stalls selling oscypek everywhere, and plenty going on well after you've come down from the mountains.
What I particularly like about a winter trip here is how accessible everything feels, especially if you're not an experienced skier. You don't have to plan an entire ski holiday to enjoy Zakopane. If you want to ski for just one day, or even try it for the first time, there are plenty of beginner-friendly slopes where you can rent your equipment and give it a go without making skiing the focus of your whole trip. Compared to somewhere like Switzerland, where a ski trip can feel like much more of a commitment, I think Zakopane is a very easy place to simply try it.
And if you don't want to ski at all, that’s fine too. You can take a cable car into the mountains, spend an afternoon at one of the thermal baths, go snowmobiling, eat your body weight in pierogi and oscypek, or find somewhere warm for a drink while it snows outside.
After visiting Zakopane so many times, I've definitely developed opinions about what is worth doing, where I'd stay, and what I'd skip. So in this winter travel guide, I'll take you through everything I think you need to know before visiting, including when to go, how to get there, where to stay and eat, and my favorite things to do in Zakopane in winter.
In this guide:
This guide is all about Zakopane in winter. For more, check out my full Zakopane travel guide, my Zakopane summer guide, or combine your trip with a few days in Kraków.
OK, ready? Here’s all you need to know about Zakopane before you start planning your next winter trip:
When Is The Best Time To Visit Zakopane?
Zakopane is beautiful all year round, but if you want to experience it in winter, I personally love going just before Christmas. By then, the town is decorated for the holidays, there's usually a good chance of snow, and you get all the winter atmosphere without the absolute chaos that arrives between Christmas and New Year's.
And when I say chaos, I mean it. Zakopane is an incredibly popular place to spend the holidays in Poland, and the week between Christmas and New Year's is probably the one time I wouldn't choose to go myself. The roads get busy, restaurants fill up, and you can end up waiting in line for everything from cable cars to attractions. If those are the only dates that work for you, definitely book your hotel, restaurants, and any activities you really want to do ahead of time.
There’s also a small Christmas market around this time. And when I say small, I really do mean small, so I definitely wouldn't travel to Zakopane specifically for it. But it still adds to the atmosphere when you're already there, especially with all the Christmas decorations and hopefully some snow. If Christmas markets are a big part of why you're visiting Poland in December, the Kraków Christmas Market is much more worth planning time for. It's considerably bigger and very easy to combine with Zakopane if you're visiting both.
January and February are also great months to visit, particularly if skiing and snow are your main priorities. Just keep in mind that Poland has staggered school winter holidays, so Zakopane can get very busy again depending on which region happens to be off that week. If you have some flexibility, I'd always check the Polish school holiday dates before booking.
As for the weather, yes, Zakopane gets cold. Temperatures in town regularly drop below freezing in winter, but I've always found that it's the wind that really gets you, especially once you head higher into the mountains. It can feel perfectly manageable while you're walking around Krupówki and then suddenly feel significantly less cute when you get off a cable car higher up.
So this is not the trip to pack a pretty coat and hope for the best. Bring a genuinely warm winter coat, gloves, a hat, and a scarf, and don't underestimate how important proper shoes are. I'd go for warm, waterproof boots with good grip because snow very quickly turns into ice and slush once everyone starts walking over it. If you're not sure what to look for, I've also put together a guide to choosing a winter coat, including the materials and features I actually look for when buying one.
Snow itself is slightly harder to predict. I've visited when everything was completely covered in fresh snow and other times when there was much less of it in the center of town. Going later in winter generally gives you a better chance, but there's never a guarantee that Zakopane itself will look like a snow globe on the exact dates you visit.
If I had to choose, I'd still go the week before Christmas for a first winter trip. But if your main reason for visiting is skiing and you care more about snow than Christmas decorations, I'd look at January or February instead.
How To Get To Zakopane?
If you're coming from Kraków, you have a few options for getting to Zakopane: driving, taking the bus or train, or booking an organized day trip. The journey usually takes around two hours, although traffic can make a big difference, especially during weekends and holidays. Over the years, more and more of the route has been turned into highway, and these days I'd say around 75% of the drive is pretty straightforward. It's the final 30 km or so where things can get interesting.
That last stretch is largely a one-lane road, and when Zakopane is busy, traffic can get really bad. There have been plans to expand the road for years, but people living along the route understandably aren't particularly excited about having a huge highway built in front of their homes and have protested against the plans. Which, honestly, fair. The downside for visitors is that those final 30 km can take much longer than you'd expect, so I wouldn't plan anything too tightly around your estimated arrival time.
If you're only visiting Zakopane for the day, I actually think an organized trip from Kraków can be the easiest option. You don't have to worry about driving, parking, or figuring out how to get between different attractions, and many tours combine some of the main sights with a visit to the thermal baths. If you only have one day, that's a pretty easy way to get a taste of Zakopane without having to organize everything yourself.
If you're staying for a few days, however, I personally prefer renting a car. It gives you much more freedom to visit different slopes, thermal baths, viewpoints, and activities outside the center without constantly having to arrange transport.
There are a couple of things I'd pay particular attention to when renting a car in winter. Most rental companies will switch their cars to winter tires for the season, but I would always double-check before leaving. Snow and ice are completely normal here, and the roads can be very different once you get away from the center of Zakopane.
I'd also check the exact location of your accommodation before deciding what kind of car to rent. You absolutely don't need a 4x4 simply because you're visiting Zakopane, but some cabins and hotels are reached via surprisingly steep mountain roads.
I've stayed at Osada Gubałówka na Polanie, for example, where the road up was so steep that there is absolutely no way I would have wanted to attempt it in a regular car in snowy conditions. And remember, you don't just have to make it up the hill. You eventually have to get back down it too. If your accommodation is somewhere higher up or away from the main roads, I'd message them before your trip and ask what they recommend during winter.
Parking is generally easy enough to find around Zakopane, although spaces can fill up quickly during busy holiday periods. I'd also keep some cash with you. I've come across plenty of smaller parking lots where you pay an attendant rather than a machine, and cash is still useful in situations like this.
If you're staying right in the center, you may decide you don't need a car at all. Zakopane itself is very walkable, and you can always arrange transport for activities farther away. Just keep in mind that taxis can get expensive, particularly if you're staying outside the center and relying on them several times a day.
Where Are The Best Places To Stay In Zakopane?
When it comes to where to stay in Zakopane, you basically have two options: stay right in the center of town or head a little farther out, towards areas like Kościelisko, where you'll find more cabins and apartments with beautiful views of the Tatra Mountains. I've done both over the years, and there are definitely pros and cons to each.
Personally, I love staying in aparthotels or cabins when I'm here. Maybe it's because I live right in the center of Amsterdam, but give me a wooden cabin, a fireplace, and snow outside and I'm very happy. It just adds a little bit of that “winter cabin in the mountains” magic to the trip.
You'll find a lot of aparthotels around Zakopane too, which I think work particularly well here. You still get many of the conveniences you'd expect from a hotel, but your room is more like an apartment, usually with a kitchen, coffee maker, dishwasher, and more space to settle in. They're especially nice if you're staying for several days and don't necessarily want to eat every single meal at a restaurant.
So, should you stay in the center or head into the mountains? I've stayed in both, and I don't think there's one answer that works for everyone. It really depends on what kind of trip you're planning, so let me walk you through both options.
Stay in the Center of Town
If convenience is your priority, I'd stay in the center. You'll be able to walk to Krupówki, have plenty of restaurants nearby, and won't have to get in the car every single time you want to go somewhere. I think this is particularly useful if you're planning lots of activities or want to go out for dinner and drinks in the evening.
My favorite option in the center is Mountain Shelter Apartments, formerly Giewont Hotel. I've stayed here around twice a year and keep coming back, which probably says more than any generic hotel recommendation I could give you.
The location is one of the main reasons I like it. It's just off the main street, so you can walk pretty much everywhere in central Zakopane, but there's also private underground parking if you're traveling by car.
There are quite a few different apartments to choose from, and one thing I particularly like is that the rooms are individually numbered. When you book through Booking.com, you can see which specific apartment you're choosing rather than just selecting a general room category. That makes it really easy to compare the different layouts and choose the one that works best for your trip.
I usually book the Penthouse Apartment. It has one separate bedroom, another sleeping area upstairs, and two bathrooms, which is incredibly convenient when you're traveling with more people. The sofa also folds out into another bed, so you can fit even more people if you need to. One thing worth knowing is that it's listed as having two bedrooms, which is technically true, but the upstairs bedroom doesn't have a door. If you're traveling as two couples or just want a bit more privacy, that's something I'd keep in mind.
Since my partner and my mom usually come with me when I go to Zakopane, the layout works perfectly for us. The apartments are also pet-friendly, so my cat comes along too. He absolutely loves it because there are plenty of places for him to climb around, plus big windows where he can sit and people-watch while the rest of us are out exploring.
The compromise is that you don't get quite the same “cabin in the mountains” feeling you get when staying farther outside Zakopane. You're very much in town rather than waking up surrounded by mountains and snow. But if it's your first visit, you're planning to do lots of activities, or you simply don't want to drive every time you go out for dinner, I think staying in the center is probably the easiest option.
Stay in the Mountains
If you care more about waking up to mountain views than being able to walk to Krupówki, I'd head outside the center towards Kościelisko. This is the option I'd choose if you want more of that winter-cabin-in-the-mountains feeling. You'll find wooden cabins and apartments overlooking the Tatras, but the trade-off is that you'll be much more dependent on your car.
I've stayed at Osada Gubałówka na Polanie, which sits high above Zakopane and has some incredible views of the town and surrounding mountains. The apartments are a great option if you're coming to Zakopane to relax, spend time in the mountains, and don't mind being away from the center. Waking up here with everything covered in snow is exactly the kind of winter Zakopane experience I love.
The biggest downside is the location, although that's also partly why you'd choose to stay here. There isn't much within walking distance, so you'll need to drive around 15 minutes to reach supermarkets, restaurants, and most of the places you'll want to visit.
And as I mentioned earlier, the roads up here are steep. In snowy or icy conditions, there is absolutely no way I would have wanted to drive up to Osada in a regular car. If you're considering staying here in winter, I'd ask the property about current road conditions and whether they recommend a 4x4 before choosing your rental car.
More recently, I've also stayed in one of the Mountain Shelter cabins on Salamandra in Kościelisko, which is on the same road. I already love their apartments in central Zakopane, but the cabins give you a completely different experience with beautiful mountain views.
Funny enough, I'd actually been eyeing these cabins long before I ever stayed in one. When they were still being built, I wanted to find out whether they were going to be for sale. My mom has absolutely zero social anxiety, so she walked up to the construction workers and asked for the owner's phone number. We somehow ended up meeting him and found out the cabins were going to cost around €750,000.
Needless to say, this website isn't that successful... yet. So considering we'd realistically only use the cabin a couple of times a year anyway, we decided renting one whenever we're in Zakopane made considerably more sense. And having now stayed in one, I'm perfectly happy with that arrangement. I still get my wooden cabin, fireplace, and mountain views for the week, which is really all I wanted in the first place.
So if you're deciding between staying here and staying in central Zakopane, I'd really base it on the kind of trip you want. Stay in the center for convenience; stay around Kościelisko for the views and cabin experience. I've done both plenty of times, and I genuinely like both for completely different reasons.
What Are The Must-See Attractions And Activities In Zakopane During Winter?
One of the things I love most about Zakopane is that you really don't have to be a serious skier to have a good time here in winter. You absolutely can spend your entire trip skiing if that's what you're coming for, but you can just as easily ski for one afternoon and spend the rest of your trip eating, exploring, and sitting in thermal pools. Personally, that's much more my kind of ski holiday.
If you do want to ski, there are plenty of slopes around Zakopane for different levels. Kasprowy Wierch is probably the best-known option and is better suited to more experienced skiers, while beginners have plenty of smaller slopes to choose from. I've found places like Witów much less intimidating if you're still learning or simply want an easier day on the slopes.
You also don't need to bring any ski equipment with you. There are plenty of places where you can rent skis, boots, helmets, and everything else you need for the day, and you can easily book a lesson if it's your first time. That's another reason I think Zakopane works so well if you only want to try skiing for a day rather than plan your entire vacation around it. Compared to ski destinations in Austria or Switzerland, renting equipment, booking a lesson, and getting onto the slopes can also still be relatively affordable, so there's much less commitment involved.
Another really good option is Białka Tatrzańska, particularly if you want to combine skiing with a visit to the thermal baths. You can ski at the resort and then head to Termy Bania afterwards, so you essentially get skiing and après-ski without having to go anywhere else. And yes, sitting in a hot outdoor pool surrounded by snow absolutely counts as après-ski in my book.
Thermal baths are actually one of my favorite things to do around Zakopane whether you're skiing or not. Termy Chochołowskie is another option and the one most people seem to know, but there are several thermal bath complexes around the region and they're quite different from each other. I've visited several of them, so if you're trying to decide where to go, you can read my comparison of the best thermal baths near Zakopane or my dedicated Termy Chochołowskie guide.
Back in Zakopane itself, you'll almost certainly end up on Krupówki at some point. It's the main pedestrian street through the center, lined with restaurants, shops, food stalls, and plenty of places selling oscypek. It's touristy and can get extremely busy, but I don't think you can come to Zakopane for the first time and not walk down it at least once.
For mountain views without having to ski for them, take the funicular up Gubałówka. On a clear winter day, you get beautiful views across Zakopane towards the Tatra Mountains, and there are restaurants and stalls at the top, so you can spend some time up there rather than immediately heading back down.
Looking for even more things to do all year round? I've put together my full Zakopane travel guide with all my favorite activities, places to visit, restaurants, and practical tips from years of coming here.
Where To Eat In Zakopane?
Food is a pretty big part of any trip to Zakopane for me, especially in winter when you've spent half the day outside in the cold. This is definitely the place for traditional Polish mountain food, and you can expect plenty of soups, grilled meats, potatoes, pierogi, and dishes that will keep you very well fed.
One thing you absolutely have to try is oscypek, the smoked sheep's cheese you'll see being sold pretty much everywhere around Zakopane. It's traditionally grilled and served warm with cranberry sauce, and I order it basically every time I'm here. You'll also see plenty of żurek, a sour rye soup that's particularly good when it's freezing outside.
If you want the full traditional Zakopane restaurant experience, my go-to is Bąkowo Zohylina Wyźnio. I've been coming here for more than 20 years, and while it has definitely become more popular and touristy over time, I still think it gets the balance right. The food is traditional, there's often live local music, and it feels like the kind of place you should eat at at least once while you're in Zakopane.
I would make a reservation, though. If you're visiting around Christmas or another particularly busy period, I'd even call about a week ahead. There's also another restaurant called Bąkowo Zohylina Niźnio closer to the center, so make sure you're booking the right one. I've always preferred Wyźnio because its location slightly outside the busiest part of town makes it feel less crowded.
For something a little quieter, I really like Ziębówka for lunch. It's a family-run restaurant outside the center serving Polish and regional food with a more modern approach. You'll need a car to get there, but that's also part of why I like it. It's an easy way to escape the crowds for a couple of hours.
Ziębówka is also conveniently on the way towards Termy Chochołowskie, so I like combining the two. Have a long lunch, continue to the thermal baths, and spend the rest of the afternoon sitting in hot water while it's freezing outside. There are considerably worse ways to spend a winter day.
These are just two of the places I keep coming back to. If you want more restaurant recommendations, I've included more of my favorites in my Zakopane travel guide, along with more things to do and places to visit around the area.
Practical Tips for Your Trip to Zakopane in Winter
After visiting Zakopane in winter more times than I can count, there are a few things I'd keep in mind when planning your trip:
Don't underestimate the cold. Zakopane itself can be freezing, but once you head higher into the mountains, the wind can make it feel considerably colder. Bring a proper winter coat, gloves, a scarf, and a hat. This is one trip where I'd rather have too many layers than spend the entire day thinking about how cold I am.
Wear proper shoes. Snow in town quickly gets compacted, icy, wet, or slushy, so waterproof boots with decent grip are much more useful than shoes that simply look winter-appropriate. I've learned not to mess around with footwear here.
You don't need to bring ski equipment. If you only want to ski for a day, there are plenty of rental shops and ski schools where you can rent everything you need and book a lesson. That's one of the reasons I find Zakopane so beginner-friendly.
Book ahead during busy periods. Around Christmas, New Year's, and Polish school holidays, I'd make reservations for popular restaurants, thermal baths, ski lessons, and anything else you definitely don't want to miss. Zakopane gets busy.
Keep some cash with you. You can pay by card in most places, but cash is still useful for things like smaller parking lots, stalls, and places where you pay an attendant directly.
Allow extra time when driving. The last stretch of road into Zakopane can get incredibly congested, particularly during weekends and holidays. A journey that normally takes around two hours from Kraków can easily take longer.
Check your rental car before heading into the mountains. If you're driving in winter, make sure the car has winter tires. And if you're staying somewhere high up around Kościelisko or Gubałówka, ask your accommodation whether you'll need a 4x4 to reach it safely.
Don't plan your trip around guaranteed snow. Winter gives you a good chance of seeing Zakopane covered in snow, particularly later in the season, but weather is weather. Conditions in town can also look very different from what you'll find higher up in the Tatras.
Leave some room in your itinerary. This is probably my biggest tip. You don't need to schedule every hour of a trip to Zakopane. Go skiing, visit the thermal baths, walk around Krupówki, eat far too much oscypek, and give yourself some time to actually enjoy being in the mountains.
I hope this was helpful. If you have any more questions, feel free to reach out. I’m more than happy to answer any of your questions.
Happy travels!
More Poland Travel Guides & Hotels
